THE HOMEGUNSMITH.COM Only through mass non-compliance with all gun and knife laws will we ever overthrow Britains anti-gun fascist gun laws. 'Vengeance will be mine, one bullet at a time'

1. Homemade Gun Silencers Suppressor Blueprints
2. Silencer Plans Pdf
3. Gun Silencers For Sale
4. Gun Silencer Laws By State

A silencer, also known as a sound suppressor, suppressor or sound moderator, is a muzzle device that reduces the acoustic intensity of the muzzle report (sound of a gunshot) and the recoil when a gun (firearm or air gun) is discharged, by modulating the speed and pressure of the propellant gas from the muzzle and hence suppressing the muzzle blast.Like other muzzle devices, a silencer can be a. Potato Gun Silencer Plans It took me a while to make these plans. They do help silence the gun, but only to a certain extent, you can still hear the boom. I would like to warn you that after a lot or use, this silencer may get potato pieces in it and need to be cleaned.

Air Machine Gun Plans! Caselman Air Machine Gun Video!

Philip Luty died on April 8, 2011 after a two year struggle with cancer. This web site will be kept online as a memorial. —Ken Holder [email protected] Articles by or about Philip Luty: A Threat to Freedom of Speech in England by Philip A. Luty A Horror Story from England by 'Musket Mike' of Montana A Brief History of British Gun Control (or, How to Disarm the Law Abiding Populace by Stealth) by P.A. Luty Locked up just before Open Heart Surgery for Downloading Mr Luty's eBook by Clifford Rutley 'Securing the Future of Firearms Ownership' An amazing film, EVERYONE MUST SEE!: Cancer Cured? Welcome to my Homemade Firearms web site. The web site devoted to the homemade gun and techniques of improvised firearm manufacture. In these days of increasingly oppressive anti-gun policies and almost police state politics affecting many other areas of our lives, it has never been more important for the aware citizen to know how a working firearm is constructed. The Mantra of the British Gun Owner 'There are over 550 million firearms in worldwide circulation; that's one firearm for every twelve people. The only question is; how do I arm the other eleven?' EXPEDIENT HOMEMADE FIREARMS VOL II is now available. Free Download (A 13,641,248-BYTE .PDF FILE) NEW DOWNLOAD! The 'BSP' 9mm SMG They say the best things in life are free ... but not in this case! Complete plans (including photo's and illustrations) showing the construction process of this 9mm BSP- SMG. *This firearm design is perhaps the simplest of all improvised SMG' designs. *Constructed using off the shelf British Standard Pipe fittings and hardware products. Downloadable plans--FREE DOWNLOAD! 'take a dose of this you pigs'BSP-SMG Schematic

Let's face a few facts. The faceless bureaucrats who are determined to disarm law abiding citizens are not doing so because they are 'Nice People' concerned about you or I being the victim of a crook with a gun.

Their Friends in the media who miss no opportunity to churn out the lies, myths and misinformation that have, in the eyes of many, demonised gun owners do not do so because they wish to disarm the local 'Drug lord'. They do so because they see the private ownership of firearms as a threat to their own power base and an obstacle in the way of their 'New world order' mentality. An Orwellian society, nanny state, surveillance society, call it what you wish, they are all part of the same despotic ideas that have, in the last century alone, lead Europe twice down the path of dictatorship and destruction. An armed society is the 'safety net', a last wall of defence, the people possess (Possessed?) against the 'Big brother' nightmare many see being created all around us. No wonder those with ill intent would like to see the people disarmed!

Some people may find such rhetoric distasteful but it is a truth some find harder to swallow than the cosy ideas we are brainwashed into thinking make our society safer by those who wish to control what we believe, think and do. Some naive individuals adhere to the view that only the police and army should have access to firearms. I call that a police state mentality and a very dangerous mentality at that. History is littered with examples of regimes around the world that have first disarmed their own citizens, always behind the smoke screen of 'law and order' and then proceeded to commit atrocities or all out genocide against their own unarmed and helpless citizens. In such circumstances, the ability of the private individual to build his own homemade/improvised gun, or perhaps go into full scale underground arms manufacture, maybe of even greater importance.

My own view is that the gun not only belongs in the hands of the agents of the state (they can never be disarmed) but in the hands of the people as a whole. This is the surest way of maintaining the correct balance of power between state and citizen. The mad rush of government to create a 'gun free' Utopia will not, of course, have any effect on the crime rate. The criminal, by definition, does not obey the law and is therefore unaffected by any anti firearms legislation. Gun control will, however, create more and more victims of violent crime as long as we allow ourselves to be disarmed behind the smokescreen of 'Crime control'. This is the unpalatable truth you will never read in the media or hear from any politically correct politician.

Unfortunately, while we continue to allow the media anti gun propaganda mills to churn out their lies, myths and misinformation we will continue to see the destruction of the ancient liberties and freedoms once securely enshrined under the 'Common laws of England'.

When any government deprives a citizen of his freedom or property, the individual must take action to publicise his grievances. To this end, I hope to illustrate in the following pages, the futility of gun control, and that no amount of arbitrary legislation can ever prevent those wanting firearms from owning them. The individual who has the ability to construct his own homemade gun can never be permanently disarmed by any level of gun control legislation.

So as to allow you to get a 'feel' for the subject of homemade guns, the following pages illustrate how a reasonably light weight and portable homemade Machine gun was assembled from readily available 'Off the shelf' materials and components. No lathe or milling machine was required or used.

The firearm that can truthfully be described as 'a homemade gun' should be one built using the type of hand tools and materials that the average individual could easily acquire.

The Homegunsmith is proud to support NOTICE Neither the registered owner or any other person affiliated with this website shall be held liable or responsible, or in any way encumbered by the material posted on this page or any other unit sub-page within this site. Neither shall any material upon this page or any unit sub-page be construed as encouraging persons to engage or partake in, or incite any unlawful activity. With the exception of governments to manufacture weapons of mass destruction (and flog'em to oppressive regimes around the world) be it hereby known that our great and benevolent leaders have decreed that the building of firearms for the protection and security of the individual (or any other reason) is positively forbidden. Anyone building guns, artillery pieces, mortars, rocket launchers, etc, etc does so at his own discretion, risk and enjoyment.

Honestly!!

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[ M16 4-Way Select Fire ] [ Gun Recoil ] [ Intro to Long Range Mil Dot Shooting ] [ QuickLOAD ] [ 300 BLK ] [ Leupold RX2800 ]

By Major Rob Robinette

Warning: You must have a BATFE Form 1 with tax stamp before you start to legally build a suppressor. National Firearms Act (NFA) rules apply and you can do hard prison time for violating the law.

The first step in manufacturing a suppressor is getting permission from the Bureau of Alcohol Tobacco Firearms and Explosives (BATFE) by filling out a Form 1 and sending in $200 for a tax stamp. It will take three months to a year to get the tax stamp so send it in early. You must wait to begin building your suppressor until you receive the tax stamp.

9mm Tavor X95 With Suppressor

1 3/4 inch diameter by 5 inch long suppressor. The 9mm Tavor uses a blow-back action so it functions without a suppressor 'booster'. It has an odd 1/2'x36tpi barrel thread.

My homemade .22 suppressors are Hollywood quiet--quieter than a pellet gun--but many people are surprised by how loud suppressed 9mm and 45 ACP are. It's not like in the movies where all you hear is brass hitting the floor. My 300 Blackout suppressor is very comparable to my Silencerco Osprey 45 commercial suppressor but they're much louder than a suppressed .22.

An additional benefit of using a suppressor is the significant reduction of recoil.A suppressor can reduce rifle recoil momentum by approximately 25% by slowing gas exit velocity. Pistol cartridges use relatively small amounts of powder and therefore generate less muzzle gas than rifles so pistol suppressors have less gas to work with and only reduce recoil momentum by approximately 5 to 10%.

The added weight of a suppressor also reduces recoil. Since pistols are light, the additional weight of a suppressor can greatly reduce recoil. The weight of a SilencerCO Osprey 45 ACP suppressor (0.65lb) installed on a fully loaded Glock 21 (full size 45 ACP at 2.47lb) will cut recoil energy by 21% due to the added suppressor weight. The same suppressor installed on a Glock 17 with empty magazine (full size 9mm at 1.55lb) will cut recoil energy by 30% due to weight alone. Total suppressor recoil reduction usually comes in around 25% for pistols and 15 to 30% for rifles. See my online Recoil Calculator for more info.

A pistol suppressor also reduces muzzle flip by making the weapon longer which spreads its weight over a greater length increasing its moment of inertia thereby reducing rotation (muzzle flip is a rotational force).

A suppressed pistol with a red dot sight can be frighteningly accurate. Less noise, less recoil, less muzzle flip and a sighting system that can take advantage it.

Something else Hollywood gets very wrong is the sound of a bullet striking flesh--it's loud. When hunting with a suppressed rifle the reduction in muzzle blast allows you to hear the bullet strike. A shot to an animal's chest with a subsonic 300 Blackout round sounds like a two-by-four body smack. Hollywood really does need to pick up on this for a little extra realism.

Here's a short high quality stereo mp3 recording I made of a suppressed 300 Blackout shot where you can hear the muzzle blast, bullet whizzing by and the target impact. It was a 100 yard shot with the microphone about 70 yards downrange. The impact is as loud as the muzzle blast. The bullet was a 220 grain Sierra MatchKing boat tail bullet.

Speaking of subsonic bullet flight noise, the US Army's Silencers: Principles and Evaluations report found that streamlined boat tail bullets were much quieter in flight than flat base bullets such as the 30-30 Winchester or pistol bullets.

Since I have a Grizzly combo lathe/mill at home that I use for making race car parts I already had everything I needed to make a suppressor. By the way, I have been asked about my lathe/mill but I cannot recommend the Chinese made Grizzly combo lathe/mill because its tolerances are a little sloppy and I'm not familiar enough with any other lathes and mills to make a recommendation.

I decided to go with an all aluminum monolithic baffle design for a 300 Blackout suppressor as my first suppressor build. 'Monolithic baffle' means the baffle is cut from a single piece of round bar. 300 Blackout uses standard .308 size bullets and has fast spin rifling to stabilize heavy subsonic bullets. It's very good at sending heavy 240 grain bullets at subsonic speeds downrange accurately. 300 Blackout can also be loaded for supersonic and makes an excellent home defense and hunting caliber.

If I were building a suppressor for .308 supersonic loads I would use at the very minimum, steel for the blast baffle (first baffle the bullet encounters). A single steel engine freeze plug can make an excellent supersonic rated blast baffle. They come in many different diameters. An all aluminum suppressor should only be used with subsonic ammunition. The fast moving gas from supersonic rounds will quickly wear away aluminum baffles. All 147gr 9mm and 230gr 45 ACP ammo are subsonic.

I have used the .30 cal suppressor pictured below on several .308 rifles using subsonic 175 to 220 grain Sierra MatchKing bullets and Trail Boss powder. Subsonic .308 loads are very mild and a thick aluminum blast baffle is fully adequate. A 1:10' twist .308 barrel will stabilize a 220gr bullet at 1050fps. A 1:12 twist .308 barrel will not stabilize subsonic bullets. Low velocity bullets spin slower than full speed rounds so a tighter twist is needed for heavy and slow subsonic rounds. Trail Boss pistol powder works well because it's fast burning for less muzzle blast and it's a low density powder that will fill more cartridge space for more consistent subsonic velocity.

JBM Ballistics Bullet Stability Calculator

Use this bullet stability calculator to see if your rifle/bullet combination will stabilize a subsonic bullet. A stability value of > 1 will be stable.

***A note about pistol suppressors: Most semi-auto pistols are recoil operated (locked breech) and need a spring mechanism to decouple the barrel and suppressor to allow the pistol to cycle. A spring and piston decoupler or 'booster' allows the barrel to move back and cycle the pistol without the suppressor initially moving with it. Because of this the non-booster suppressors on this page will not work with recoil operated pistols. Blow back pistols, like most .22 pistols, do not need a booster so the suppressors on this webpage will work with them. Rifles, of course, will also work with the suppressors shown on this webpage.

Pistol caliber carbine rifles are a great fit for homemade non-booster suppressors because they do not use pistol style locked breach operation. Also their heavy, large diameter bullets hit hard at subsonic velocity and their longer barrels allow fast burning pistol powder to completely burn for less muzzle blast. They make excellent home defense weapons for these reasons. I absolutely love my Tavor X95 bullpup in 9mm with a homemade suppressor but a 45 ACP carbine would add some stopping power.

Since subsonic bullets are limited to a velocity of around 1050 feet-per-second, the best way to add stopping power is to increase the bullet's diameter and weight. I'm a big fan of suppressed 45 ACP because it's hard to beat a 230 grain 45 caliber bullet for short range subsonic stopping power. For even more stopping power 45 ACP +P in 200 to 230 grain jacketed hollow point can be used for maximum energy transfer at subsonic velocities like this Buffalo Bore 45 ACP +P 200gr JHP with 490 foot-pounds of muzzle energy. Buffalo Bore +P 230gr JHP and Hornady +P 220gr JHP Critical Duty are also good choices for subsonic personal defense ammo. +P ammo will be louder through a suppressor than standard ammo but the extra stopping power delivered outweighs the extra noise.

45 ACP defensive ammo is designed to fully expand at subsonic velocity so it's a proven, inexpensive solution with excellent stopping power. The cost of 147gr 9mm subsonic ammo can be higher than generic 230gr 45 ACP ammo too.

If you like the mild recoil of a 9mm pistol (I know I do), keep in mind that a suppressor greatly reduces recoil and muzzle jump due to added weight and the slowing of muzzle gas. A suppressed 45 ACP pistol shoots like a non-suppressed 9mm. Adding a 1lb suppressor to a 2lb semi-auto pistol will cut recoil by 33% due to the added weight alone. The suppressor's slowing of muzzle gas will cut another 10 to 20% of recoil. This is another reason to use suppressed 45 ACP for home defense.

For hunting distances I recommend 300 Blackout because of the excellent BC and aerodynamic efficiency of the 200 to 220 grain subsonic 30 caliber bullets. There are several new 300 Blackout subsonic hunting rounds available that will fully expand at subsonic velocities such as this Hornady and Underwood ammo.

I'm a big fan of holographic and red dot sights for subsonic weapons due to the typical short ranges used. Pistol iron sights are also a good match for subsonic shooting.

.22 Caliber Suppressor On Sig 1911-22

1 1/4 inch by 7 inch long suppressor. This pistol's blow back action has a fixed barrel so no suppressor 'booster' is required.

These are two of my favorite books on suppressors:

I used 1 1/2 inch outside diameter aluminum round bar for the 300BLK and 9mm baffles and 1 1/2 inch inside diameter aluminum round tube for the baffle covers. The specs on the aluminum round bar are: 1 1/2 inch diameter 6061 T6 aluminum round Stock # R3112 from www.metalsdepot.com. The 1 foot long bar only costs $17. The 300BLK suppressor is 8 inches long. The tubing for the baffle cover is 1 3/4 x .125 (1.75' diameter with .125' wall and 1.5' inside diameter) 6061 T6 round tube Stock # T3R134125. This size suppressor is what I recommend for all calibers except .22 or .17.

For my .22 caliber suppressors I use a 1 inch outside diameter 6061 T6 aluminum round Stock # R31 and 1 1/4 x .125 (1.25' diameter x .125' wall and 1' inside diameter) round tube Stock # T3R114125. I have built .22 suppressors at 6 and 7 inches long and prefer the extra suppression the 7 inch length gives. The extra length really helps quiet a short pistol barrel.

MetalsDepot.com Order

The first and third items are for a 1 1/4' diameter .22 suppressor, the second and fourth items are for a 1 3/4' diameter 300 Black suppressor. 1 foot long round bars are all that is needed to make a suppressor. Note how the outside diameter (OD) of the baffle matches the inside diameter (ID) of the tube.

You can also split the difference between these two size suppressors and use a 1 1/2' outside diameter x .125' wall x 1.25' inside diameter tube (stock # T3R112125) with a 1 1/4' diameter aluminum round bar (stock # R3114). This size suppressor will have to be longer than a 1 3/4' diameter suppressor for the same sound suppression but it will look sleeker.

To manufacture a monolithic baffle suppressor the basic steps are:

Start with a solid round metal bar to make the baffle

Cut the bar to length

Face both ends of the baffle on a lathe

Drill and tap one end of the baffle where the baffle will screw onto the threaded barrel

Drill the bullet path through the baffle

Drill/mill out the gas chambers in the baffle

Clean the bullet path with the bullet path drill bit

Cut the baffle cover tube to length

Face the ends of the baffle cover tube on the lathe

Finish the baffle cover tube on a lathe or simply polish it with steel wool

You may need to remove some material from the outside of the baffle so that it will fit inside the aluminum tube

Insert the completed baffle into the baffle cover tube and seal. If you have difficulty knocking the baffle into the cover tube with a plastic mallet then remove more metal from the outside of the baffle to slightly reduce its diameter. The seal can be a press fit, welded, epoxied, one or more small screws, or even duct tape. .22 suppressors work fine with a press fit but larger caliber's will need something to keep the outside tube from leaking gas and shifting position under fire. Two or three small screws around the end of the suppressor works well for this purpose.

The pictures below show three suppressors being manufactured, an 8' x 1 3/4' 300 Blackout, a 5' x 1 3/4' 9mm and 7' x 1 1/4' .22 caliber. I have Form 1's and tax stamps for all three.

I use a chop saw to cut the round bars and tubes. A vice and hack saw can also be used because facing the bars and tubes in a lathe will true them up.

Facing the Suppressor Baffle On the Lathe

Facing the suppressor baffle ensures a precision fit and alignment when the suppressor is screwed onto the rifle barrel. Face both ends of the baffle and tube. Facing the baffle and tube will also make it easier to mount them square in the lathe.

Drill the Barrel Thread Tap Hole

To prepare for tapping the barrel thread I drilled the thread end of the baffle. The depth of this hole isn't critical because it will lead into the large blast baffle but it needs to be deep enough to allow the suppressor to screw onto all the thread offered by your rifle barrel. Longer baffles will need to be supported on the lathe by a steady rest (shown holding the baffle at near end). The tail stock holds the drill bit stationary and in perfect alignment while the lathe spins the baffle.

Thread sizes are given by diameter and threads per inch or mm. '1/2x28' means 1/2 inch diameter and 28 threads per inch (tpi). 'M13x1LH' means 13mm diameter and 1 thread per mm left hand.

.22/.223/5.56 use a 1/2x28 tap and a 7/16 (.4375) inch drill bit.

The Steyr Aug uses a metric M13x1LH (13mm x 1 thread per mm left hand) and a 12mm drill bit.

H&K 5.56 uses a M15x1 and a 14mm drill bit.

Sig Sauer Mosquito and GSG Firefly use a 9mmx0.75 and an 8mm drill bit.

.308 and 300BLK use a 5/8x24 tap and 9/16 (.5625) inch drill bit.

6.5 Creedmoor, 6.5 Grendel and most other 6.5 & 6.8mm rifles use the .308 standard 5/8x24 tap and 9/16 (.5625) inch drill bit.

7.62x39 AK-47 uses a metric M14x1LH (left hand) and a 13mm drill bit.

9mm uses a 1/2x28 tap (same as .22 and 5.56) and a 7/16 (.4375) inch drill bit.

The Tavor 9mm uses 1/2x36 tap but still uses a 7/16' drill bit.

H&K and Sig 9mm (including MPX) use a M13.5x1LH (left hand) and a 12.5mm drill bit.

338 Laupa Some use the .308 standard 5/8x24 tap and a 9/16 (.5625) inch drill bit while others like the Ruger Precision Rifle use a 3/4x24 tap and a 11/16' drill bit.

.40 cal uses 9/16x24 and a 1/2' (.5') drill bit

H&K .40 uses a M14.5x1LH and a 13.5MM drill bit.

45 ACP uses a .578x28 (37/64x28) inch and a 17/32' (.53125') drill bit.

H&K 45 USP Tactical uses M16x1LH and a 15mm drill bit.

H&K Mark 23 Socom uses M16x1RH and a 15mm drill bit.

Optional Boring For the Tap

Boring the tap hole to the pre-tap size. This is not necessary if you have the correct size drill bit as listed above.

Tap the Baffle Thread

Tapping the baffle--Do not use lathe power to do this. I used the tailstock to simply hold the tap for perfect alignment with the bullet path. The tailstock is loose so it can be pushed by hand into the baffle. I turned the lathe chuck by hand to start the tap. I did the last half of the tap using a standard tap hand wrench so I could feel when the tap bottomed out. I used a 5/8x24 threads per inch (tpi) tap to match the thread on my 300 Blackout barrel.

Finish the Tap By Hand

Finish the tap by hand so you can feel the tap bottom out. This suppressor is for my Tavor X95 9mm bullpup rifle so the thread is an odd 1/2' x 36 threads per inch. Shorter suppressors like this can be worked on the lathe with only the lathe chuck holding the baffle (no steady rest needed).

Drilling the Bullet Path

You can flip the suppressor baffle around and drill from both ends to keep from having to use a long drill bit. The bullet path drill bit will be smaller than the thread hole--see below for bullet path drill bit sizes. The drill bit is held stationary by the tailstock and the lathe spins the baffle.

Using An Extra Long Bullet Path Drill Bit For Long Suppressors

Drilling the bullet path the full length of the suppressor baffle. Start the bullet path hole with a normal length drill bit for more precision then switch to a long bit when needed. I got the long 11/32' drill bit at Home Depot.

300BLK and .308 bullet diameter is .308 inch so use an 11/32' (.344') drill bit for the bullet path through the baffle.

.22 and .223, 5.56 and 224 Valkyrie bullet diameter is .224' so use a 1/4' (.250') drill bit. If your suppressor is longer than 7 inches you may want to go with a larger 9/32' (.281') drill bit for more clearance at the exit hole.

9mm bullet diameter is .355 so use 3/8 (.375') bullet path. If your suppressor is longer than 8 inches you may want to go with a larger 13/32' (.406') drill bit for more clearance at the exit hole.

.40 cal and 10mm bullet diameter is .40' so use a 7/16' (.4375') drill bit.

45 ACP bullet diameter is .451 so use a 1/2' (.500') drill bit.

These are my favorite books on the AR-15, M16 and M4:

Drill the Baffle Gas Chambers

Drilling the baffle chambers. Note the marked baffles to be milled out. I started with a drill bit then finished up with an end mill (below) to finalize the baffle chamber shapes. You must leave enough metal from the barrel end of the suppressor to the blast chamber (first chamber) to allow the suppressor to screw onto the entire length of thread on the end of your barrel. In other words, don't cut the blast baffle too close to the end of the suppressor.

Milling the Baffle Gas Chambers

Homemade Gun Silencers Suppressor Blueprints

Clean the Bullet Path

Cleaning up the bullet path after milling using the bullet path drill bit.

The Finished Baffle

The finished baffle. I had to turn the baffle in the lathe to remove about 15 thousandths from its diameter to make it fit easily into the tube. I intentionally left the baffle chambers odd shapes to disrupt the gas's path through the baffle. I now recommend heart shaped baffle chambers like in the .22 suppressor shown in the next section because of how well that shape worked in controlling the gas. I also recommend leaving much less metal between the chambers to make the gas chambers as large as possible and also make the suppressor lighter.

Welded Tube-to-Baffle Seal

I slid the completed baffle into the aluminum cover tube and welded both ends to seal the suppressor. It's now ready to be screwed onto a rifle, inspected for barrel alignment and test fired. Please forgive the crude welding, I'm an amateur aluminum welder. You'll need an AC TIG welder to do this kind of work. If I need to open the suppressor I can use the lathe to cut the welds to remove the tube cover. A sealed suppressor can be cleaned by soaking it in mineral spirits. If I were to do another 300BLK suppressor I would go with a press fit like the .22 suppressor shown below in the next section.

Mounted 300BLK Suppressor

The suppressor wrapped and installed on the 300 Blackout upper. The wrap helps reduce noise too.

Before test firing a suppressor you must mount it and do a bore sight inspection to verify the baffles and exit hole are lined up with the rifle bore. If the suppressor exit hole doesn't look perfectly centered don't fire the weapon because a baffle strike will destroy your suppressor. Remove all washers and lock nuts from the rifle muzzle because they can throw off the suppressor alignment. The best alignment usually comes from seating the suppressor tightly against the muzzle thread shoulder.

The BATFE requires you to inscribe or engrave the exterior tube of the suppressor with the information from the Form 1:

Serial #

Model #

Manufacturer (your name or trust name as shown on the Form 1)

Manufacturer's city & state

I used a Dremmel tool with a fine bit to engrave the suppressor information.

A well made .22 suppressor really can be called a silencer because they are Hollywood quiet. Mount one of these on a Ruger 10/22 and you'll soon be looking for ways to quiet the action or lock the bolt closed. They're that quiet. I absolutely love shooting suppressed .22 and at 4 cents a round you can't beat the price-to-fun ratio.

Finished .22 Baffle

A .22 baffle made of 1 inch solid round aluminum bar. Note the large square blast baffle at the bottom and the heart shaped gas chambers. This suppressor worked out very well and is quieter than a commercial .22 suppressor I purchased later. The baffle is 7 inches long.

The author shooting suppressed subsonic .22LR from his Ruger Precision Rimfire. Long range subsonic 22LR is absolutely crazy fun to shoot.